JANKIE ENGENERING

JANKIE ENGINERING

I decided that I wanted an electric scooter so I looked around and found an old push scooter that I had converted to be a dirt scooter. that was to be my base.

Next I found an electric trolling motor(just the motor) I sawed the fin off of the motor body.

I attached a rollerskate wheel to the prop shaft, used a hose clamp and a large socket to tension the skate wheel agianst the side of the rear tire .

Then I cargo strapped a 12 volt battery to the main rails.

I ran the motor wires up to the battery terminals and connected the negative and black wire together then set the red wire over the positive terminal so when you stood on the post the wire made a connection.

I'm not recomendig this (any of it) for people to do, but I could go about 10MPH for about an hour and a half, only on fairly level ground. I used it 7-10 times for trips between 5 and 8 miles before I burned the brushes (smoked the motor) tring to climb a small shallow grade. I was lucky I was only a half mile from home when it went. Still this was enough to prove to me at least that I wanted another electric scooter that was faster and less JANKIE.

FRITZ

Beginning Wireframe

As we told you, when we were ready we would give you info on assembly.(Our version) So here is our way of Making a Wireframe Model. You should know up front that all of this is our opinion only, there are as many ways to do a job as there are people. What works for you is your way, this is just to help you get started. First envision your idea. Then scribble it down on something, keeping in mind that it will evolve. This rough draft will guide you. We decided to make the base first so using the birds eye view we shaped our wire to match the outline of the frame. You will notice that we laid out a drawing showing approximations of length, width and angles. This was for reference. Deciding where the back and front supports go is next. These will be soldered in place. Be sure to flux the joint for a good bond. Also use a surface that will not conduct heat or burst into flame.

After the joints cool inspect and add or remove solder as needed. Add further cross supports.

Going back to the sketch (scribbles) develop a concept for the right side support.



You will notice here that we have re-drawn our sketch onto graph paper still it is not to any scale but this helps us with angles and lengths. Once the layout is complete it is soldered separately. It is then easy to attach that side to the already formed base frame. Shaping the top front rail is next, we do it like most things, by eye. This view shows us trying to figure out what compound angle looks best for the front top angle, keep in mind that it doesn't necessarily have to follow the line of the lower angled tube. In fact on the PROTO II the door opening is not only wider at the top it is also further forward than the bottom. The front and left side assembly is quite similar you can see that some novel front end changes have occurred compared to the original drawing. This top view shows significant change from the sketch. FRITZ and HEINZ

PROTO III assy sequence 19

Out for a ride and what should we come across but a true classic. Note similarity of profile. The fins arent as sharp by design.

PROTO III assy sequence 18

The first ride, how sweet it is! Note handlebars here are low by comparison to what we wound up with. We really like a more upright position.

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By this time we're realy ready to ride but it still needs brake adjustments, chain and some finishing touches.

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Final assembly taking place.

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This view shows some of the features we thought were pretty cool like the entry handle, the rear rack/ seat and the front cage opening for long objects.

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Two more cans of paint and we're just about there.

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This after about 4 cans of spray paint. Note rear rack has mesh in it as does entry step. We used outdoor furniture paint figuring it would hold up better.

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This is a rollable but not ridable sidecar bike. We were so excited we took it out and pushed it down the street just to see how it felt. We were amazed.

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This view shows cage welded to frame. Note beginnings of rear rack and test painting for color match.

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This view shows the high inside wall and deck flair behind rear axel.

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This view shows entry top outside wheel supports and entry step plate mock-up. At this time we thought that the step plate would be a solid plate.

PROTO III assy sequence 8

This shows the welded cage with expanded metal skin. Note welds are unfinished.

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Mock-up showing cage bike seperation. This was necessary to insure sufficant clearence for feet of cyclest.

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Tacked cage showing paper entry step mock-up.

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PROTO III major tubes tacked. Note no inside uprights, no upper outside wheel supports.

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Further mock-up of bike attachments.Note upper rear attachment that was not used in final form.

PROTO III assy sequence 3

3/4 view .Note blocks supporting frame.

PROTO III assy sequence 1

PROTO III showing tubes taped together before welds. Note no attachment to bike ,this was to get a feel for position relative to bike.